The focus of the regularly occurring series “When in Rome” is the city beyond the Janiculum, coming directly from those who have spent time in Rome—including fellows, residents, staff, and more. Selections typically include: quiet places or off-the-beaten-path locations; specialty shops or stores; cafés and restaurants; parks or green spaces; and views or vistas.
Marla Stone is currently professor of modern European history at Occidental College in Los Angeles and a 1996 Rome Prize Fellow in post-classical humanistic studies. She was the Academy’s Andrew W. Mellon Humanities Professor from 2021 to 2023. Stone shares a few favorite places in the Eternal City.
1. Latteria
Vicolo della scala, 1
This delightful new Trastevere wine bar specializes in natural wines, artisanal beers, cheeses, and salumeria from across Europe. Every day Latteria offers a small menu of warm dishes such as polpette and artichoke lasagna. The atmosphere at is warm and far less touristy than most spots in the neighborhood. The staff share their deep knowledge of the wines and guide diners to the best choices and pairings. Absolutely perfect for an aperitivo!
2. Rooftop Bar at the Hotel Forum
Via Tor de’ Conti, 25
Once you have climbed to the rooftop American Bar at the Hotel Forum, you find yourself nestled above the Imperial Fora. A wonderful spot for taking in Trajan’s Forum and the Roman Forum in an atmosphere that evokes the 1960s and la dolce vita. Try their delicious cocktails and old school appetizers.
3. Mr. Clood
Via Luciano Manara, 13
A charming father and daughter–owned trattoria, Mr. Clood is my absolutely “go to” for a casual lunch or dinner. It’s small, but delicious, specializing in fish and seafood, but with a twist. From spigola or branzino encrusted with radicchio or apples to spaghetti alle vongole, everything is fresh and made to order. Monica is delightful and loves her AAR customers. And it is a quick walk down the hill!
4. Mausoleum of Santa Costanza
Via Nomentana, 349
This fourth-century church on the Via Nomentana is worth the trip. Historically essential and aesthetically stunning, the mausoleum of Santa Costanza (Constantine’s daughter), the building is a compelling example of early Christian art and architecture, with the original mosaics of birds, fruits, and early Christian iconography. While Costantina’s original porphyry sarcophagus has been moved to the Vatican Museums, Santa Costanza offers one of the best chances to see an intact fourth-century church with primarily original decorative motifs. The adjacent Sant’ Agnese church and complex, which stands above the catacombs of Sant’ Agnese, are equally worth a visit.
5. Casa Madre dei Mutilati ed Invalidi di Guerra
Largo dei Mutilati ed Invalidi di Guerra, 2
The former national headquarters of the Fascist veterans’ association in Prati, Casa Madre dei Mutilati ed Invalidi di Guerra contains the most intact in situ collection of Fascist art in Rome. This triangular building, situated between Castel Sant’Angelo and the Ministry of Justice, is rarely open to the public but is worth applying for a permit to see the mosaics and frescoes by Mario Sironi, along with a collection of art by lesser-known creators of the period. The outdoor fresco cycle by Antonio Giuseppe Santagata, the painter of Fascism’s wars, depicts battle scenes from the Fascist invasion of Ethiopia to the Second World War.